I chip budded some red oak onto white oak. No different then doing an apple, plum, peach, cot… just line everything up tape and rubber band. I’ll report back in the spring if i get a take.
Just about done around here with budding. Everything i budded a few weeks ago still look good…
Won’t work. Whites and reds would be like a human getting a blood transfusion of the wrong type. I realize it’s an experiment but just so others know…
Dax
Huh…well then i’ll graft white oak to red oak 
You’re almost there! 
Dax
One of my few successful grafts. This was harrow delight on a Flordahome pear…it’s not pretty but it worked…
You might look at this thread Harrow Delight Pear. The fact it took was not unusual because Harrow delight has old home as part of its genetics which is half the cross of the most famous pear Rootstock grown today old home x farmingdale ohxf . When grafting Harrow delight expect 100% takes. You can take that further and next year use an interstem of Harrow delight to graft nearly any other pear on your trees.
I wanted to share a picture of something I’m very proud of 
I did few grafts this year for the first time. Most of them were very ugly clefts grafts. But here’s a picture of one in my opinion very nice looking clean graft. Red circle shows the point wood joined together. Almost can’t tell! It’s a splice graft.
Nice graft Susu! Looks great!
It does look good. Nice graft
Growing well!
Holly … 19 on 1, you have a grafting addiction 
This is my apricot graft. It didn’t grow very much this year, but it is still alive and has leaves on it.
I didn’t really use a grafting technique (that I know of.). I just shaved the bark off both of them and smooshed them together. And yes, I removed the tape binding the scion to the branch, and the scion seems firmly attached.
But my scion grew hardly at all this year and I wonder if it was due to the graft?
Any comments would be welcome, as this is my first graft to a tree (others were to rootstock) and also my first stone fruit graft, so I really don’t know what I am doing.
Clearly you want to wrap that with something that can withstand weather for a year and also expand if there should be much growth around the callus. Parafilm twice a year might do the trick.
I’ve seen what some folks call a step graft illustrated, in which both pieces have been cut in about 1/8 inch for little twigs to as much as half way through for larger, one or two inches from the lower end of scion and upper/outer end of stock, tied together with as much cambium contact as can be. Seems to be preferred with conifers. Haven’t tried it, as have not grafted conifers and the other types of grafts I’ve done so far serve pretty well on apples: cleft, whip (and tongue, but not always including…) saddle and its inverse, bark or rind, side, and chip bud.
Funny how responses like this give one a reason to review what one has done. Three of the above I tried first time this past season. Even 50% success gives one the confidence to try other styles when conditions arise that appear to require a different approach.
Keep up the effort. It can change how you manage your fruits and, eventually, diet!
Its difficult to deduce the orientation of the grafted branch from the photo. Is the host limb horizontal? The grafted limb will grow more vigorously if it is oriented relatively vertically without other growth above it.
I’ve included another picture. I would say the graft “limb” (it’s like a 2 inch stub) is about at a 35 degree angle from the trunk, and then the way the scion was put on its at about a 45 degree angle from the trunk. There are no branches directly over the graft, but there are other branches higher up the tree on the other side. Does that info help?
ETA: I don’t know how good the graft will be in the long term, since it is kind of weird, but as of right now, the graft itself is pretty sturdily attached.
There is nothing wrong with the graft union. I suspect it being low and having limbs above it is the reason for its low vigor.
Thank you for your replies. It is good to know the graft is ok. It just looks quite different to most I see on here so I was unsure.
Should it be ok eventually, maybe just take a little longer to size up and grow out?
Or will it stay a runt and should I maybe look at regrafting on a higher branch?
I think that you will get more accurate suggestions if you provide more inclusive photos such as the whole tree from different sides. Is your goal to have a multi-variety tree or convert to one variety?
Here are more photos. This is primarily a Tomcot tree on citation. As you can see, I am hoping this branch grows to a heathy size, as my tree will be lopsided if it does not.
If all goes well, I’d like to leave a healthy branch of Zard on this tree, but my ultimate goal would be to take some Zard scion wood from this tree to make my OTHER apricot tree a multi-grafted tree. (It is a Jerseycot on Manchurian. I initially got the Jerseycot because I heard it was extremely hardy, disease resistant, good producer, etc. But after I planted it, I heard so many horrible things about its taste! So I’ll probably leave a bit of Jerseycot, but also put another Zard scion there, as well as other apricot scions.)
So plants are living machines primarily run on differentials. Differences between pressure and temperature are what control what the juices do in the plant. If there are branches in higher, significantly brighter, warmer or significantly dryer spots, physics demands that fluids will be pulled to that area. You can promote vigor by doing anything that will improve the relative “fertility” of the branch compared to what is currently vigorous. You can trim the whole tree, cut back higher or better lit branches, prop up the grafted branch, or any number of things that improve the immediate area of the graft or removes more vigorous growth.
In your case, your winter pruning should be a little harder this year, and graft will push growth and be fine I would expect. You definitely want to splint it, but I can’t tell you how many years you will need to. If you cut back the higher growth enough, it might completely wrap the graft union in one or two years.
